A sunny day in Lithuania

Did I mention that when I arrived at my hotel, the street was gone? Fenced in, dug up, five to ten feet deep in places. A short walk down the sidewalk from where the cab dropped me to the hotel, so not a problem--just amusing! And, the street is being restored beautifully--the old buildings made to look new. It will be even better when the street work is done.

I'm trying hard to think that I didn't care for Riga because of the weather--grey, cold, bitter wind coming off the Gulf of Riga. But no, it was a deeper greyness that was lingering from the Soviet era: progress had been made, yes, but the decay and devastation was everywhere you looked. Symbolic of what I found there was the one english sign in the train station, posted at the information desk at I time I most needed assistance. It read: "We do not have any information on trains. We do not give out tourist information." An information booth in the train station--what other kinds of information could they be asked to dispense?

Riga should still be on a list of cities to visit, but it will be more enjoyable in five or ten years. Focus your time on Tallinn and Vilnius.

Vilnius! What a pleasant surprise! Yes, the sun was shining most of the day, and blue skies were in the majority over the clouds. But everything here besides the weather is welcoming, as well. The many churches in town all had their doors open, except one or two that were under renovation. Even those in poor condition on the outside were resplendent on the inside. The Russian Orthodox church had the relics of three 14th century martyrs front and center in the sanctuary, with their stocking and felt slipper covered feet sticking out from under a blue felt blanket, all under glass. The priest was dissuading tourists from taking pictures there, for what I think was good reason. The inside of the church was incredibly ornate, painted in both pastels and bold greens, gold gilt accenting everything, soaring light dome floating above the relics.

The Dominican church was much less ornate, but had a well adorned altar area. Nice transluscent white linen banners hung from above; the organist was rehearsing a piece with a small group of strings: sublime. The church during Soviet times had been gutted, all interior furnishings trashed or sold, and the building used to store grain.

Each of these cities has boasted a television center, each with a similar sad story to tell. As each of these Baltic republics made their quest for freedom, Soviet troups would head for the television studios in order to take over the airwaves and prevent news of rebellion from being broadcast. Ten to fifteen people were killed trying to defend each of these broadcast centers.

I hiked up to both the Upper Castle and to the Hill of Three Crosses. I'll post pictures of both. The three crosses had been bulldozed during the Soviet occupation; the remains of these monuments are preserved and memorialized just down the hill from the new crosses which have replaced them.

Sadly, there seemed to be more beggars here than other places. None seemed threatening as they might have been in Riga, where they seemed to travel in groups of two or three. Here, sadly, I've seen several children playing instruments on the street (today is Saturday) seeking money, and yesterday evening, a teenager on crutches asking "please help me".

Old town here is also a World Heritage site--I think the old towns in Tallinn and Riga are as well. Lots of narrow cobbled streets to wander, and it seemed that at each church this afternoon, weddings were taking place. I saw one couple being driven through town in what was probably a 1930's Mercedes convertible--he was going to fast for me to get my camera out, though! A great car, and a happy couple.

I started the day seeking out the Frank Zappa memorial, which wasn't too far from my hotel. I had a bit of trouble finding it, and happened on a large building that was probably military in the Soviet era, surrounded by an outdoor market of military decorations and other odds and ends. Working my way around this area, I said "Frank Zappa" to several younger looking people, and all I got were blank stares. Further down the street, I spotted some young people moving out of a flat, and asked if anyone spoke english. One stepped forward, and I asked again. "Oh yes, Frank Zappa. Just take a left here, and he's two hundred meters down the street on the left.

Tonight, the Lietuvos Nacionaline Filharmonija, row 7, seat 18. Tomorrow morning, LOT airlines to Krakow via Warsaw. More later.

JP